Archive for Step-by-Step Project
Project: Sunlight Snooze Button
Posted by: | CommentsHere is Addison’s room:
Here is the skylight that brightens up her beautiful room and wakes her up long before mommy and daddy are ready to be awake.
I don’t know if this project will be exactly what you need…unless you live in a hundred year old furniture factory that has been converted into lofts and your skylight is surrounded by thick, wood beams. But if you get anything out of this, just realize that there is always a solution to your problem – and it’s usually a pretty easy solution too.
I knew that I needed to fashion a shade, or cover for the sunlight but didn’t (and couldn’t) make it permanent. So I bought a yard of thick, navy blue felt and four purse making grommets. I already had a container full of screw hooks so I pulled four of those as well.
First: measure the area you need to cover. Then measure the fabric to fit. Cut.
I used two layers of felt to make sure the sunlight doesn’t sneak in for an extra early wake up call. Top stitch layers together and backstitch around corners where grommets will go.
Follow the instructions and apply the grommets to the corners of the fabric. I use metal grommets that require a tiny screwdriver to secure. Make sure you examine the grommets before you take them home and make sure you have the correct tools.
Simple as that. Now grab your ladder and your screw hooks and screw them into the corners of the (in my case) skylight casing.
Repeat on all four corners. Then, easy as pie, hook the fabric onto the screw hooks.
And now all you have to do is sleep in.
What is your problem you need solved?
Let’s figure it out together! Contact me with your issue and we’ll find a way to fix it. I’m well rested now..I can help!
Project: Silk Flower Pins
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Do you love the look of the embellished clothes and accessories that are so popular in stores right now? Me too. But they are a PAIN to take care of – I don’t really want to dry clean my t-shirts. Here is your easy, removable, re-usable solution: a silk flower pin. Embellish your t-shirts, purses, belts, tank tops, dresses, shoes, the possibilities are endless. Give it a shot, you’ll love the results.
Your supply list:
silk flowers (size is up to you, I like small flowers so they don’t weigh my clothes down)
pin backing
hot glue gun (or a strong fabric glue)
felt (i prefer green)
needle and thread (again, I prefer green, but you can match your thread to each blossom)
scissors
Now, this is incredibly difficult so prepare yourself for some frustration.
Ah, I’m just kidding, this project is really simple. First, get everything set up. You will want to have everything at your fingertips for this one.
1. Whether you have one blossom per stem or numerous blooms in a bunch, first step is to pull the blossoms from the stems. It should be very easy, the majority of silk flowers are not connected securely. 
2. Make sure your needle is threaded and ready. Take the first flower and while holding the top and bottom at the same time, pull what is left of the plastic stem from the blossom. Make sure you hold on to the petals, THEY WILL FALL APART OF YOU DO NOT HOLD THEM SECURELY! Now take your threaded needle and sew the petals together.
3. When your petals are secure cut a circle of felt that will cover the flat of the back of your flower. Cut another piece of felt as long as the diameter of your circle and only as wide as the pin backing you have chosen. 
4. Glue the round piece of felt to the back of the flower. I highly recommend hot glue, you can get a hot glue gun very inexpensively at your local craft store and even some grocery stores. If you are using a different kind of glue, make sure each piece is dry and secure before moving on to the next step.
After gluing the felt round on the back of the flower, glue the pin backing directly to the felt.
5. Apply glue to the back of the rectangular piece of felt and slide between the stick of the pin and the backing. This is necessary because the surface area of the pin backing is not substantial enough to keep the pin attached to the flower. By using this small rectangular piece you are ensuring the pin will stay secure.
6. Wear your creation! I love the look of a cluster of these flowers on a white v-neck tshirt but they look beautiful on canvas bags, ribbon belts and even shoes with soft uppers. Have fun, be creative with your application and go impress everyone!
Project: Get off my ‘case’
Posted by: | CommentsSometimes we need a case to hold things. It’s a fact. In my..case…I just bought a non-diaper bag that looks great but doesn’t have compartments inside for things I need for my two year old. One of the things it’s missing? Pockets to hold diapers. If diapers aren’t contained they unfold, get in the way and accumulate enough JUNK on them that one would never want to place them against one’s child’s skin. SO, I made a case for the diapers. Your case can hold anything, just take the basic – ridiculously easy – principle and adjust it to fit your needs.
If you are going to try and follow these instructions you have to free your mind from the constrictions of patterns — I don’t do patterns. Just grab your materials and lets get going!
The first step to SO many of my projects is to pin around your “filler” object. To do this lay your fabric out RIGHT SIDE UP – this means you want to see the side of the fabric you want showing when the project is complete. In my case, the green pattern. Now, place your “filler item” (2 diapers in this case) fold the fabric to the top of the item the pin down the sides. This creates a pouch. Here, I pinned a hem across the top of the pouch for a clean edge once it is turned right side out. I left enough fabric at the top of the pouch to create a flap closure later on.
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I chose an accent fabric in a different pattern as a liner for the inside of the flap so when the case it open it doesn’t show the stitching and the wrong side of the main fabric. After I cut the green fabric to the size I wanted for the flap I pinned a piece of accent pattern from the top of the flap to halfway down the pouch. This way, when the seams are sewn the liner will be sewn directly into the main fabric seams.
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Now, using a tight in and out stitch, sew from a bottom corner up the side to the top of the pouch hem. Don’t sew any higher yet or the flap will not work properly. Then sew along them pouch hem BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DO NOT SEW THE HEM TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE POUCH – YOU WILL SEW IT CLOSED – just sew along the fold. Once you have sewn the length of the hem, sew down the other side to the bottom corner until you hit the bottom pouch fold. Tie off your stitch.
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Now that the pocket is sewn, work on the flap. Fold the liner fabric away from the main (outer) fabric flap. Fold in the corners and top seam as though you are wrapping a gift (as seen in the picture at left) Pin down. I like to use a thin line of washable fabric glue to keep these pieces secure with clean folds until I complete the sewing.
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The “right side” of the flap in the pinning stages. This is what will show on the outside when the project is complete.
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Now fold the liner fabric so it matches the lines of the main fabric. Fold the seams inward so when the liner and main fabrics are stitched together the folds and seams are hidden. Pin to secure. The section of liner that extends past the fold of the flap should already be sewn into the seams of the pouch. Just continue the seam with a tight, even in and out stitch.
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When all seams are complete, turn the pouch inside out so the right side of the fabric is showing and the seams are hidden inside. This is what it should look like.
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If you need to make sure the pouch stays closed stitch in a snap, some velcro or a magnet closure. When you are sewing the flap closure make sure you only stitch into the liner and not through both layers of fabric, you don’t want your stitches showing on the outside of the flap.
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Here is my finished project! I have been using it non-stop and I am incredibly pleased with the result. Give it a shot on your own. I know my methods are unconventional but they are effective!
I used the same basic technique to create a lined laptop case and will soon be sewing a lined sunglass bag. Keep checking in if you’re interested in the how-to on either of those projects…coming soon!
Project: Fabric Art
Posted by: | CommentsI have a ton of stuff, I think we’ve covered that fact. Among my piles and piles of things to be redesigned was a large, square canvas…full of holes. I used it for a previous project where I filled the canvas with faux flowers for a piece of 3D wall art. It was pretty but I took it apart to build the hanging floral ball. I didn’t throw the canvas away because I thought I would be able to find another use for it – but it’s hard to paint a canvas that is full of holes. Well, here is my solution.
This project is dedicated to all you non-sewers out there. You won’t even have to THINK about a needle and thread to create this piece of art!
supplies needed for fabric art project
Here is what you’ll need:
- a canvas (or just use canvas stretchers to create the frame)
- enough fabric to create your “fabric painting”. I used scraps of fleece left over from my blanket making days, but you can make a plan of your image ahead of time and make a trip to the fabric store for the specific colors and patterns you’ll need. The cost will be minimal unless you are planning a large wall sized piece!
- Staple gun or thumb tacks
- Fabric Glue
- Scissors
Okay, let’s talk how-to. The hardest part about this project is having an image plan ahead of time, the actual construction is incredibly easy. First you need to attach your base layers to the canvas frame. I used blue for sky, light green for hills and dark green for the ground/grass layer. Wrap the fabric around the edges and staple, pulling the fabric taut as you work your way around. If you don’t have a staple gun and have decided to use thumbtacks, follow the same instructions and make sure the fabric is tight.
staple your fabric to the frame
Repeat this step with all pieces of base fabric.
Image Background
Now its time to start layering in patterns. This is, of course, your choice to add patterns but it adds so much to the final look. I used a pattern in green between the hills to show the separation between the layers.
Add pattern layer for differentiation and interest
I just tucked the fabric in between the hills and pulled it to the edges, stapling it to the frame. Then take your fabric glue and glue the lower layer of hills to the pattern fabric. You don’t need much, the thinner the line of glue the better so it doesn’t show through to the front.
Trim the pattern layers along the layering line
Once the glue is set, trim the pattern fabric along the hill line so there is a half inch of pattern between hill base layers.
Next step? Start adding details, you know, the pieces that will make this ART and not just a bunch of fabric stapled together. Cut the pieces in “reverse visual order.” In my piece I needed to attach the tree trunk, then the foliage, and then on to the birds and leaves and other small details.
Cut and apply glue to detail pieces before placing on main canvas
Now you can start layering in your detail pieces
Once you have your image completed you are essentially done with the piece. I decided to make this as a gift for one of my cousins who just gave birth to her first daughter and wanted to make it more personal for her so I added a few extra touches…
Have someone in mind? Personalize it!
Keeping it for yourself? Leave it the way it is.
But if you’re making this as a gift it is nice to make ALL angles as attractive as possible. I wanted to clean up the back of the canvas as much as I could…although I couldn’t do a whole lot about the holes all over the canvas!
Use wide ribbon to trim the backside
If it's a gift, make it attractive from all angles
To create a clean look for your canvas just trim extra fabric, whip out that fabric glue and attach the ribbon to both the fabric and the exposed wood.
And that’s it. Seriously. Hang it up, give it away. Do what you will…you are now a fabric artist. I’ll start adding more pieces so you can see how to achieve a more sophisticated, less child oriented look. Keep an eye out!
Spring Redesign: Fireplace Display & Color Paper Matting
Posted by: | CommentsIt’s a good thing that our fireplace wall doesn’t have feelings because I change things around SO OFTEN in that spot it would be in a constant state of pain from all the hammering. Christmas called for a red painting flanked by topiaries, mid-seasonal limbo (you know – after christmas but pre-spring) had the large gardenia painting with the same topiaries used at Christmas time, and spring time called for something completely different…again.
I tend to stick to the 36″ x 36″ painting on the wall with some sort of flora on the mantle shelf but this season I decided that I should change it up a bit. So I found three inexpensive 20″ x 20″ natural wood frames with mats included. I knew I wanted a bright color on the frames so I took out the backing, matting and glass then unrolled some old christmas wrapping paper and painted the frames with some grass green acrylic paint. When it gets a little warmer outside I am going to take them apart and paint them over with a super gloss spray paint but one must work with one’s environment and Chicago decided it wasn’t ready for me to decorate outside yet! So, work with what you got, you know?
Even though I decided against the drama of the huge painting I still wanted to highlight the height of our ceilings so I chose to stack the three frames from the shelf to the ceiling. This part may not be hard for those of you that have an aptitude for numbers and logical thinking, but I am pretty much purely a creative thinker and measuring the exact spots to hang these frames took some time…here is a little documentation of the MANY steps. It took a long time and the frames are still not perfectly spaced, but I can live with them.
If you decide to do this project your steps may differ from mine. My thinking process is different than most people’s. I wanted to find the correct placement on the wall, place the nails and THEN fill the frames. This way I could get the “technical” part out of the way and have a clear mind for the creative part, which happened to be three watercolors. I am not a watercolor artist – my mom is so I have witnessed the idea of the medium but my experience doesn’t go much further than a using a kid’s watercolor palette for shading handmade stationary. Because I didn’t have watercolor paper I decided I would use the paper included in the frames, flip it over and just paint on the blank side. My mom, who happened to be visiting, told me that because I wasn’t using watercolor paper I would need to watch the amount of water so the paper didn’t wrinkle. I thought it would be fine.
It ends up that my mom was right, as moms tend to be. The paper ended up being too wrinkly and even though I liked pieces of the paintings, the overall result drove me up the wall. I lived with them for a few days but finally abandoned them for something that would not make me itch with artistic unease every time I looked at the wall. I decided to print out three different photos: cherry blossoms, orange blossoms and lilacs. The openings in the mats measured 12″ x 12″ and my printer could only print as big as 8.5″ x 11″ so I decided to use colored paper in different shades of green as a secondary mat to fill the space.
I originally placed a candle and three decorative birds on the shelf but it proved to be too 'busy' Taking them off lends a cleaner look
To create the secondary mat with colored paper, you’ll need a cutting mat (you could use a piece of cardboard or even an old magazine, something you won’t mind if it gets sliced by the knife) an exacto blade, shades of paper in your chosen color, a ruler and a pen. My frame had a 12″ x 12″ opening and I needed a two inch mat. Starting with 12″ square scrapbooking paper I measured 2″ from the outside edge all the way around the paper. Measure every four inches and make a dot. Line up your ruler on the dots and connect them with a line. Repeat on all four sides of paper. Place your ruler along your drawn line, hold firmly and use as a guide as you cut with the exacto blade. This will leave you with a straight, precise line. Repeat on all sides.
Place your cut paper mat on inside of frame (ant pen marks should be facing INSIDE the frame) tape in place. Repeat with the photo, as seen below.
Pop all the backing materials back into the frame and hang those puppies up on your wall! I am SO much happier with the look of the framed photos. I am looking forward to having glossy frames but until then, I am pleased with our fireplace wall.
Are you going to try this one? Give it a shot, tell me how you like the results or if you change anything. I’d love to have your feedback!
Project: Making a Monster
Posted by: | CommentsDo you have kids? Do they always want new toys? Of course they do, mine does. She wants everything, everywhere and it was one of these times, when we were in the middle of the toy aisle at my craft store that I saw a pair of googley eyes. And inspiration hit. For .59 I could create a fun stuffed toy! Here’s what you’ll need:
-googley eyes (two, three, seven…it doesn’t matter, ask your kid how many eyes the monster should have)
-scrap fabric for the body (any size, work with what you’ve got. I have a TON of fabric so I could make a large monster, but this guy could easily be teeny. I used fleece because I have loads of it and it doesn’t fray)
-scrap fabric for details (I used two tiny triangles for teeth and striped fleece for toes, fingers, belly and ears)
-stuffing (I just used an old, long unused pillow and un-stuffed it to fill our monster)
-needle and all-purpose thread
-as always, a thimble
First off, cut the body out of your main fabric. Whatever size you decide you want just make sure you have two layers; you are going to need a front and a back to this little guy. The front and back can be different fabrics, just make sure they are the exact same size. Layer the two pieces of fabric together and THEN cut. Then they will match perfectly. Now, decide on your shape. There is no trick to this, just use your imagination and have fun. It’s a monster so no one will have any preconceived ideas what it should look like. Stuck? Ask your kid what s/he wants it to look like. Here’s a snippet of my collaboration with my two year old:
Just go with it! Once you have the body shape cut, place your details where you want them. This will be purely in the moment. Here is what Addie and I ended up with:
Once you have a plan, take the top layer of your two pieces you cut out for your body and stitch on your details. I used red thread that contrasted with every other piece on the monster so you can see every stitch. Once all your pieces are attached, match up your front fabric piece and your back fabric piece and stitch together. I used a whip stitch – as long as the stitches are close together you don’t need to strive for perfection. The overall look of this toy should look a little rough and tumble. He IS a monster after all.
As you’re stitching, leave a section of seam open so you can fill this little guy up with fluff.
Fill ‘er up! Make sure you get the stuffing into the little pockets (hands, feet) and fill him up enough that he will be cuddly and not floppy. Once he is sufficiently full, stitch that little gap closed and hand him off to that little child who has been eagerly awaiting his (or her) new toy! My daughter named her monster immediately, “Mike the Monsh” and he has quickly become a favorite around our house and is taking a nap with Addison right now!
The newest member of our family
Goose and Mike hanging out
Have fun. This project should unleash some creativity in those of you who STILL claim not to have any artistic capability. Go ahead, make yourself a monster.
Project: Bejeweled ballet flats
Posted by: | CommentsThis one is so easy its more of an idea than a how to. Have you seen the new trend in shoes right now? Embellishment, embellishment, embellishment. Its everywhere. But for someone who already has LOADS of plain ballet flats in my closet just waiting for me to add something to them, I can’t bring myself to spend hundreds of dollars to have someone else’s name on my shoes. The most comfortable (and well worn) ballet flats I have are quite boring. My solution? A needle, thread and some jeweled bracelets.
Here’s what you need:
- a pair of shoes that you want to redesign (make sure the upper is a soft material that you can push a needle through)
- beads, faux jewels, jewelry or pearls (I used inexpensive rhinestone bracelets and cut them up)
- needle and STRONG all-purpose thread
- thimble
Bejeweled Ballet Flats
Now, all you have to have are basic sewing skills. Before you sew anything, test out your pattern on your shoe so you have an idea where you are going with your project. Once you have a pleasing design thread your needle and start your knot outside (on top of) the shoe so the knots don’t irritate your foot. Pretty simple from here…just sew the embellishment on the shoe! Follow your original design or adjust it as you go. Don’t stop until you love what you see!
Here are my results on two pairs of metallic flats…
I have a large collection of vintage and costume jewelry on hand to use in various projects. I found these rhinestone earrings, twisted off the earring clips so the backs of the earrings were flat and then sewed them directly onto the shoe. I thought it needed a little more oomph so I added the pearls and I LOVE THEM. They are so fun to wear and people comment on them all the time.
The gold shoes, unexpectedly, go with everything. Metallics are a great option for neutrals in your wardrobe but one would not expect gold with faux diamond embellishments to be a wardrobe staple! For these shoes, I had a collection of inexpensive, stretchy “diamond” bracelets. I chose bracelets with gold backing, snipped the elastic and arranged the jewels in a pattern on the shoe. I am absolutely in love with these shoes.
So there you go! Try it yourself. There are countless embellishments you can add to your shoes just go to a local craft or beading store and pick whatever you are drawn to. As long as YOU love them and love to wear them, they will be perfect.
Let me know how you do! I would really like to see your results.
Project: Wrapping Paper Designs (Mats)
Posted by: | CommentsSo, we’ve done one project with some of the awesome wrapping paper you’ve found this holiday season (project: wrapping paper backgrounds) here is ANOTHER reason to stock up on all the rolls you can get your hands on: mats. Not place mats or wrestling mats (although we could make place mats…not so sure about the wrestling variety) I’m talking about framing mats. Changing the look of your photo mats is SUCH an easy way to update you decor. You can use ribbon, paint, foil, sugar…I could go on for days, there are hundreds of ways to change your mats. But I suggest the temporary route so you don’t have to keep buying new mats every time you want to have a new look – that kind of defeats the purpose, doesn’t it?
So wrapping paper is our method of choice today. If for some reason you don’t have wrapping paper then get your hands on decorative craft/scrapbooking paper; you can find it everywhere from specialty paper stores to craft stores like Joann’s and Michael’s AND at big retailers like Target.
Here are your supplies:
- Wrapping paper (solid or patterned, either way works) or decorative craft paper
- Scissors or exacto knife
- Mat
- Tape
That’s it, seriously. Now for the how-to, if you can wrap a present then you can do this project in your sleep:
Step one: Take the mat out of the frame. If you have never done this it usually just means that you take off the frame’s backing followed by the protective paper behind the photo, then the photo then the mat.
Step Two: unroll your wrapping paper (or place your craft paper) patterned or colored side DOWN on your work surface. Place your mat on the paper with at least an inch and a half of paper surrounding the edges so you can fold the paper easily around all sides of the mat.
Step Three: Cut out the middle of the paper so there is another 1.5″ margin on the inside of the mats edges as well. Now snip the paper diagonally into the corners (in the diagram, the paper is green and the mat is gray)
By snipping the corners in this way you will keep from ripping the paper when you wrap it around the inside of the mat.
Step Four: Wrap your present…I mean, your mat. It IS just like wrapping a gift though. Fold the paper on one end down onto the mat and tape. Then fold the matching inside edge and tape, making sure to pull the paper tightly but not so tight you tear the paper – you want this to be crisp and smooth not loose. Then fold a side edge, tucking in the corner against the already folded edge as though you are wrapping the end of a gift. If you are not a gift wrapper, think of it like folding “hospital corners” on your paper rather than your bedsheets. It makes for a nice, tight corner fold. Repeat this step on remaining sides.
Step Five: After you’ve wrapped and taped all sides of the mat reassemble the mat and photo in the frame. Pop is up on the wall and admire your handiwork.
In a perfect world where I have copious amounts of time and space to finish a project I would have painted this white frame a bold, glossy red or green. But, alas, my two year old is the Queen of wanting to get into everything I do and I haven’t had time to paint the frames. BUT I will find time and that will be an entirely different project!
So get out there and buy yourself some wrapping paper and get to work on your boring, old photo mats. Your photos will thank you!
Project: Wrapping Paper design (backgrounds)
Posted by: | CommentsTis the season to find rolls and rolls of wrapping paper! And there are SO many awesome designs out there, now is the time to fill your shopping cart with as many rolls as you can fall in love with. Why on earth would I tell you to stock up on wrapping paper? It is an incredible decorating tool! From metallics to flocked damask, stripes to dots to classical art inspired prints, you can find just about anything.
“Okay Katie, I found some wrapping paper, now what am I supposed to do with it?” Well, right now I want to focus on using it as an easy fix for a boring open cabinet. I have a tea cabinet that I am constantly changing every season. When I bought the piece it served its purpose but it was so boring. Its not exactly high quality, its from Target and actually two different pieces – the buffet and the hutch were bought separately and were both assembled by yours truly. As I was putting it together I decided to spray paint the backing (the part you see behind all the stuff on the shelves) baby pink. Sometimes I love it, most of the year it just doesn’t “go” with the look I am trying to achieve. My solution is to “wallpaper” the backing with wrapping paper. That way I can change it when I want to without a lot of cost and without any damage to the (cheap, cardboard-ish) pink backing.
One shelf down, two to go
close up of wrapping paper backing
Apply this idea to numerous backgrounds around your home and you will be MORE than pleased: bookshelves, built-in cabinets, open kitchen cabinets, alcoves, insets in paneled doors, etc.
Here’s how to do it, its so easy its almost painful…
There are only a couple steps so don’t get too comfy, you won’t be reading for long.
STEP ONE: measure the area you want to paper. If you are going to see the edges of the paper in the area you want to cover make sure your measurements are precise. This project can look expensive and chic if done carefully and can very easily slip into cheap and ugly land when you rush it. Believe me, I’ve done it both ways! Record your measurements on paper, I have also had to re-measure numerous times due to a faulty memory for numbers.
STEP TWO: Roll out your paper of choice and measure out pieces for each space you very carefully measured in step one. Cut the paper with CARE … an exacto knife run along the edge of a ruler/yardstick placed along the measurement line makes for a clean, precise cut.
STEP THREE: If this is a temporary project, place double stick tape or rolled up scotch tape on the back of the cut paper. Start in one corner and smooth out along surface until entire space is covered. If this is a more permanent fix then cover the area to be papered with modge-podge or decoupage, let dry until tacky, then apply paper from one corner out smoothing as you apply. If using this technique I would advise against applying the decoupage to the back of the paper. It gets difficult and messy. Trust me.
That’s it. No, I’m not joking. That’s really it. Do it and have fun. Let me know how it goes!
Fabric Art: Using Stencils to Your Advantage
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Okay, I’ll be honest, stencils have a bad reputation. When most people hear ‘stencil’ they think cheesy border on a wall, or amateurish craft projects. This will change your mind and show you how to use stencils to your advantage, creating chic results that will blow people away.
Here’s what you need:
- The fabric piece you want to redesign (for this project I used fabric napkins and one of my t-shirts)
- fabric paint
- stencils (I like stiff plastic stencils)
- a stipling brush (stencil brush with very stiff bristles in a round shape with flat end)
- If you are a first time stenciler or don’t feel confident in having a steady hand, stencil adhesive is a great help
This project is SO easy and quick I completed four napkins AND a tshirt design while my daughter took a nap and still had time to get it all up on the website! Let’s get stenciling…
First, lay your stencil on the fabric exactly where you want the design to be. If you are using adhesive, spray the back of your stencil before you place it on your fabric. Squeeze a small amount of fabric paint on a plate or piece of cardboard as a palette. Dip the very tip of the brush in the paint and tap it onto a clean section of palette. Make sure you are ALWAYS holding the paint brush STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN – IT MUST BE COMPLETELY VERTICAL.
Now, while holding the stencil firmly, and holding the brush completely vertical, tap the paint into the stencil. Tap with pressure, you want to feel like you are pushing the paint into the fibers of the fabric. If you have the brush at ANY angle, the paint will move beneath the stencil and you will not have sharp edges and you might lose your design. When you have covered the entire stencil it will look something like this:
Peel the stencil CAREFULLY from the fabric. Let dry. Easy right? Now repeat in whatever pattern suits your fancy and have fun! You can use different shapes, different paint colors and add embellishments like beads once the paint is dry. Here are the results of my projects:
These pumpkin hued napkins are beautiful on their own but the chestnut brown stencil make them elegant
use more than one pattern to add interest to your tshirt design
don't forget the back! embellishments work on the ENTIRE shirt...don't just focus on the front
Isn't it amazing what a little brown paint can do to a plain ol' scoop neck tshirt?
Okay, now you’ve seen how incredibly easy it is, now get to it and make your own. I am going to use this technique on throw pillow covers this winter with metallic gold paint on brick red pillows. If you have a steady hand, add a letter or monogram to your design. I plan on painting the words “peace” and “tis the season” on pillows for my winter seasonal decor. I promise to post pics when their done!
Project: Floral Ceiling Art “Big Ball o’Pretty”
Posted by: | CommentsThis one is a bit of a niche project; it’s really pretty but not everyone is going to want one hanging in their family room! I personally think its best suited for children’s rooms and springtime decor. With that said, I have to admit I am a sucker for a floating sphere of flowers.
Once you get all your supplies together, this is a very simple project.
First, gather your supplies, here’s what you’ll need:
-a styrofoam ball (I found mine in the floral department at Joann Fabrics)
-silk or fabric flowers, stems cut to three or four inches in length (keep a two inch scrap of stem on the side) For help with color combinations, click here.
-all-purpose adhesive
-wooden dowel (roughly the width of your flower stems, but long enough to push through the ball from top to bottom)
-fishing line, or any clear thread (you can also use ribbon to hang from the ceiling)
-if you have it, leftover aluminum wire from beaded silverware project. If you don’t have that, staples or any stiff wire will work. You’ll use these to secure leaves throughout the ball
First off, grab the dowel and push it through the center of the styrofoam ball. Pull it through leaving a hole empty. Thread your fishing line or ribbon through the hole and secure on the opposite side by tying it around the two inch scrap of stem you kept on the side. When the stem lies flat against the ball, the ribbon/fishing line can not pull through the hole. If you are using a thicker ribbon (one or two inches +, then you can skip the stem and just tie a big knot or bow. It will be substantial enough to keep the ribbon from pulling back through.
Second, use the dowel (or your flower stems if they’re strong enough) to make a hole in the styrofoam. Squirt some glue in the hole, then insert your first flower. Push it in as far as possible so the base of the flower rests against the styrofoam. Repeat this step until the ball is covered in flowers. TIP - use your eye as judgement as the ball fills up with blooms. You can vary the distance they are set from the ball for a more dimensional look (some flowers can be flat against ball, some can have some distance between base of flower and surface of the ball) You can add leaves as you go or have only blossoms, it totally up to you. Can’t decide what types of flowers to use together? Look through gardening magazines, Martha Stewart Home (my personal inspiration favorite) or out your window: if flowers are found together in nature, they’ll be beautiful together in this project.
Third, hang the ball somewhere temporary (from a hanger, your chandelier, exposed pipes etc.) And look at it from all angles. Are there bare spots? Does it need more volume? Add more flowers where it needs more oomph and take some out where its a little to…oomphy. This is your chance to make sure it looks the way you envisioned.
Finally, hang from the ceiling. Click here for help with finding the correct anchor/screw for your ceiling.
ADDITIONS / EMBELLISHMENTS:
Want more ideas? Once your done with the basic steps, here are some suggestions if you want to add a little something special to your project:
Sparkle: glue rhinestones on flower petals. Use them sparingly for a slight shimmer or load them on for a floral disco effect!
Dramatic length: Make a large bow with a length of ribbon, leaving the tails long (two feet? maybe three if you love the drama) Secure to the knot on the bottom of the ball.
Seasonal: You don’t have to use roses or tulips for this project. Use greenery alone for a floating topiary look, or fall leaves with berries in autumn, use evergreen sprigs with mistletoe and red berries in the winter. Take what you see outside, stick in in a styrofoam ball and, boom, instant seasonal decor.
Get to it! Make it your own. Experiment and have fun with different color combinations. Love what you came up with? Send me a picture! I want to be a witness to your creativity.
Project: Masking Tape Paintings
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You will fall in love with this project. This one is for all of you who keep telling me, “I’m not an artist! Its just not that easy to sit down and make art.” Well, sorry to tell you whiners that yes, it IS that easy. Just give this project a shot. All you’ll need is:
-a roll of masking tape – you can use blue painters tape if you choose, but regular, normal colored masking tape works just fine…and sometimes better because the “stick factor” is a little stronger.
-a canvas … any size will do. and please notice that I didn’t write “blank canvas” It is pretty rare that an art project needs a clean canvas. Even Monet reused his canvases, chew on that for a while.
-a paintbrush. i suggest a 1″ or 1 1/2″ flat brush
-that’s it. seriously. that’s all you need. If you do want to take it a step further you can get some clear varnish or paint medium to paint over the edges of the tape to create a super-crisp line when you pull the tape off the canvas. Your choice, I’ve done it either way.
find your supplies at Joann.com
Okay, here goes:
First, decide if you want a white base or a color coming through once you remove the masking tape. If you want a color, paint the entire canvas with your chosen color.
Second, once your base coat has dried, put your masking tape on the canvas in your chosen pattern. Need some suggestions?
Modern: Paint the base color over the entire canvas. Feeling daring? Try a bright color – neon yellow? electric blue? Give it a shot. Now place a strip of tape vertically three inches in from the left edge of the canvas. If you’re using sealant, do it now. Paint a layer of color; if your base is white, try lemon yellow at this stage. Now place another strip of tape with one end an inch from the top left corner and the other end one inch from the bottom right corner, creating a diagonal line. Seal. Paint a layer of apple green. Now, try a piece two inches from the top right diagonal to three inches in from the bottom left corner. Paint a layer of turquoise. Last, place a piece of tape with one end two inches DOWN from the top left corner and across the canvas with the other end of the tape one inch UP from the bottom right corner. Seal. Paint the canvas a deep navy blue. Once the paint is dry, peel the tape from the canvas very slowly. Boom, you’re done. TIP…let dry completely between each stage.
- Structured: Place your tape from top to bottom two inches from left edge of canvas. Put another strip of tape parallel to the first with one inch between the pieces. If you are choosing to use a clear medium to seal the tape, do it now. Paint a layer of french blue. Once the paint dries, place a strip of tape across the bottom of the canvas, left to right, two inches from bottom edge. Seal with clear medium. Now paint a layer of navy blue. Now slowly peel the tape away from the canvas. You should see a navy blue canvas with two vertical white stripes and two horizontal french blue stripes. Use this technique with an orange palette, or red or green etc. It always looks sophisticated.
- Tape a horizontal strip of tape one inch from the top of the canvas. Place parallel pieces with one inch between each strip of tape. Seal. After the sealant is dry, try one of these techniques:
1. Paint the entire canvas one color. When dry, peel tape and have white stripes on a solid color.
2. Paint a different color in each empty space, when dry you’ll have white stripes between multiple colors.
3. Paint the base of the canvas one color, maybe green, then paint the third and sixth spaces between tape
with cream paint. Then paint the first, fifth and last space with navy blue. When dry, you’ll have a quirky
chic striped piece for your wall.
4. When your horizontal tape is in place, paint a vertical stripe in orange two inches thick along left edge, then
add another two inch stripe in yellow – overlapping about a half inch of the two colors. Continue with two
inch stripes in maroon, eggplant and sage green. Each with a half inch overlap of color. When dry, pull the
horizontal tape and you’ll find a quazi-tye-dye canvas. Pretty different, very cool.
The best thing about this project is that it is fool-proof. If you truly believe you have no artistic talent, you can be successful with this project. Just try different patterns, pop the tape on the canvas, throw some paint on, peel the tape and see what you’ve got. Don’t like it? Paint over it. You can always repaint canvases. The great masters of art painted over their canvases, you can too. Reuse. Repurpose. Recycle baby.
Now, go create some masking tape art.
Beaded Silverware
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Repeat this step until you have just enough space at the end of the utensil for another spiral. 
Full Set of Beaded Silverware
Project: Embellished Sandals “mama needs a new pair of shoes”
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Plain leather sandals are transformed with beads, needle and thread
Level of Difficulty: medium … must have basic sewing skills (see post “sewing 101″)
This project was inspired by a gorgeous pair of Stuart Weitzman sandals at a department store; they were $500! I decided to save the money and make my own. Here’s what you’ll need:
- a pair of sandals made of a material you can shove a needle through!
- beads (I chose multi-colored glass beads and had about 30 of them -15 per shoe-) TIP - find beads at local bead stores or arts and crafts stores such as Joann Fabrics (joann.com) , Michaels (michaels.com) and Hobby Lobby (hobbylobby.com).
- thread (color choice TIP - you want your thread to disappear into the project; I chose black thread because it blended with the leather of the shoe and worked with the beads I chose. If you have light colored shoes, work with lighter thread. Keep this in mind when you are choosing your beads as well)
- a hefty needle (doesn’t need to be huge, just one of the thicker choices in a standard pack of multiple needles)
- thimble, thimble, thimble. Your fingers will thank you.
- scissors.
Now, let’s embellish your sandals.
Step One: Thread your needle …double thread. You do this by threading through the eye of the needle then matching up the ends of the thread and tying the two ends together. See “sewing 101″ for an easy knot.
Step Two: Put your needle through the TOP of the shoe surface (in my case, the “T” of the strap) Once through, pull thread till the knot is tight against the top of the strap. Then push the needle back UP from the bottom of the strap DIRECTLY below the knot, so the needle comes through as close to the knot as possible. TIP - by having the knot on top of the strap, it keeps the thread from rubbing against your skin and causing irritation. Keep the underside of your strap as smooth as possible.
Step Three: Thread the needle through a bead, tie a knot. Use the “finish your stitch” knot in “sewing 101″. Repeat the knot. With two knots, cut the thread with at least two inches of thread coming off of the knot, you’ll need enough length to tie a standard knot. Tie two more knots using end-over-end and pull (as though you are tying your shoes) Pull the knot firmly. Now repeat this step about thirty times (!)
Step Four: Step back and give your shoes a once over; this may seem silly, but if you take a step back, shake the shoes in different directions to see how the beads fall. This is the best way to find empty spots. Make sure to fill those spots with more beads if you find them.
Step Five: Wear those puppies around town! It is so fun to have a stranger stop you on the street and ask where you bought your shoes…and then you get to say, “I made them!” Such a great feeling. Have fun with this project, the results will blow you away.
multi-colored glass beads on embellished shoes
Project: Patch a Pattern T-Shirt
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Transform boring and cheap into unique and chic
Here’s how I choose my outfits every morning:
Step one – choose comfy jeans I can wear with flat shoes. Step two – choose t-shirt.
I used to be quite fashionable. I wore full outfits that were planned and coordinated and creative. I also had time to stop and think about what I was going to wear. Then I had a baby. Now everything must be wash and wear, easy, comfortable and “wardrobe malfunction-proof”. Hence, t-shirts and jeans. I may be comfy, but I’m also boring. Here’s the solution: re-create the t-shirt.
There are numerous ways to add some oomph to your plain clothes, I am going to do my best to show you all of them. For this one you will need:
- your boring t-shirt (could be long sleeved, turtle neck, any material…doesn’t have to be a t-shirt)
- fabric scraps (choose a couple different patterns or colors that look good together – see “polka dots and stripes” post for tips)
- needle and thread (thread doesn’t need to match, add more visual interest by choosing a contrasting color)
- scissors
- straight pins
- basic sewing knowledge (see “sewing 101″ post)
This project is so easy, gathering your supplies will be the most difficult step. Here’s how you put it together:
1. Choose a t-shirt that you actually like to wear – if it doesn’t fit well and isn’t comfortable you shouldn’t still own it. And you probably won’t wear it after doing all the work. My shirt cost $5 at Forever 21 and it’s super comfy, just too plain.
2. Lay the shirt out on a flat surface and start laying fabric scraps on the shirt in potential patterns until you like the way it looks; when you find the winning look, pin it to the shirt with the straight pins. TIP - work with the existing pattern; if it has stripes, try cutting strips (I did with the example shirt – green and white stripe fabric on front of shirt) If it’s floral fabric, cut out flowers and use them to your advantage. 
3. Use a simple stitch (sewing 101) and sew the fabric to the shirt. TIP – make sure you separate the layers of shirt before you sew, its not uncommon for people to accidentally sew the frontof the shirt to the back. TIP - If you are using a fabric that frays, tuck the edges of the fabric under and THEN sew, creates and instant ‘un-frayable’ seam. 
4. Wear your shirt. TIP - When you wash your shirt, try the gentle/delicate cycle first. If it holds up well you can try regular cycles if its easier for you to do laundry. But a common rule says “IF ITS HANDMADE, THEN HAND WASH”. I never hand wash, but the delicate cycle is a pretty great substitute!
Have fun! Send me a picture of your results, I would love to see what you come up with.
Back, right shoulder - tuck edges under and stitch!
Final layout & Stitching of front left
