The “O” Project: Applying your initials to the Wall
By · CommentsI have an allergy to empty wall space. It’s sad and untreatable. I try really hard to live with blank space on the walls knowing that not everyone needs to be surrounded on all sides my STUFF, but my condition wins out and I put something else on the wall. After my last family room redesign I had a chunk of white space in the upper right hand corner of the room; I thought a collection of our last initial would be rather fitting for the space. With our initial being a basic circle I had to search for shapes that had a little variation to them, your last initial will probably be a little more interesting!
What you need:
- an odd number of raw, unpainted letters (material isn’t so important, they can be wood, cardboard etc)
- craft paint (multiple colors or variations of one)
- sponge brush
- drop cloth or magazines, newspapers etc
- hanging materials
Whatever your letter may be, start with raw, unpainted pieces
- Step one, paint your letters. In the interest of making this as easy and clean as possible I put the paint directly on the piece and paint from there. Unless you have a really clear understanding of how much paint you need and how it moves/drips I would suggest starting out with your paint on a paper plate or palette. Squeeze out a 2″ diameter blob and dip with each stroke. Do at least two coats, three if you’re patient to make sure the raw surface is completely covered.
a couple of magazines and a sponge brush is all you need
Whether you are working with a palette or free painting the piece while holding it you are going to need somewhere to set it down. You don’t need anything fancy for this part, I use old magazines and just open them up for a larger area. You can use newspaper, open paper grocery bags; when I do a large painting I use an old shower curtain liner. Use your imagination, just make sure you won’t mind whatever you choose being covered in paint.
attach your hanging hardware to the backside
Unless the letters you chose came with hanging hardware you are going to need to attach your own. I found a picture hanging kit in our tool closet and started to attach the hanging bar with teeth. The tiny nails were IMPOSSIBLE to nail in on our family room carpet (it was pretty late at night when I did this project and I didn’t want to anger our downstairs neighbor) So I improvised and just used the thumbtacks to attach the tooth bars. Each letter is so light that the thumbtacks were more than secure and incredibly easy to apply.
make sure every piece has numerous coats to cover raw surface
I like to arrange the letters on the floor in the pattern I want to see on the wall so I’m not flying blind. But my two year old desperately wanted to help so by the time the O’s were up on the wall they ended up looking like I wanted a bunch of O’s in the shape of an O on the wall. Not what I was going for but I have yet to change it so it isn’t THAT bad.
find your hanging space on your wall
fill your empty wall space
In the end, the empty space is filled, I can breathe easier without all that potential staring me in the face everyday. I really like the final project even though, like everything I do, I want to make some changes and improvements before I am completely happy. One of these days I will take them down and vary the metallic finish a bit as well as change the design on the wall. But overall I am representing my pride in being an Overgard…and there ain’t nothin’ wrong with that!
Project: How to turn fabric scraps into drink coasters
By · CommentsWe just redesigned our family room and in the process added some end tables that we didn’t want to ruin with condensation rings. ”We need coasters.” Said my matter of fact husband. So I made some.
What you’ll need:
scrap fabric, any texture as long as its not so nubby that a glass will tip
needle and thread/sewing machine
interfacing (I used heavy weight for a firm coaster)
fabric paint (if you choose to add words etc)
scissors
This is a very simple project. First, decide how many coasters you want and cut twice as many squares of fabric (I wanted five coasters so I cut ten squares) Cut as many matching squares of interfacing. By the time you are done cutting you should have twenty pieces of fabric cut to desired size (mine were 4.5″ square)
4.5" fabric squares
Once you have everything cut out place your interfacing with each corresponding piece of scrap fabric; each piece of colored fabric should be backed by a piece of interfacing. If you have fusible interfacing iron it now to attach the pieces.
Assuming your scraps are fused to interfacing, separate all your pieces into sets (mine separated into yellow with yellow, green with green etc.) Place each pair right sides together (in the case of the brown coaster, the brown sides would be touching and the white interfacing sides would be facing out) Now sew with 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave two inches open on one side to pull right sides through.
Interfacing should be facing out
inside seams with 2" opening and topstitched finished coaster
When the interior seams are done clip the corners and turn inside out. You can iron at this point for crisp edges or go ahead to the top stitching step.
Once the color side is facing out turn the raw edges (where you pulled the fabric through) turn the edges in and topstitch closed. Continue the topstitch on all edges.
Finished top stitching on coasters
Now, you can stop here OR you can get a little fabric paint and add a little somethin somethin to your coasters. I chose the latter.
Not a lot of instruction here, plop a little fabric paint on a scrap piece of paper, take a fine tipped brush and paint!
get ready to paint
I decided to leave instructions for use...
FInished set of coasters
Now, go get a drink and set it on your awesome new coaster.
Project: The Temporary Mural
By · CommentsWe rent. Do you know how hard it is for a muralist to live in a rented apartment? And not just a rental, a historically protected rental where residents are forbidden to do anything to the precious walls. So I must make do when I want to decorate with something other than a hanging picture. My solution? Things that are sticky. Yup. Sticky things that can be cut into various shapes solve all kinds of decorating dilemmas. Case in point: we have a large wall that once displayed a number of black and white photos in black frames of various shapes and sizes. The wall looked great but after four years of the same old thing I grew tired of it and had to make a change. So the frames came down, holes were spackled and scuffs were cleaned. I was left with a big, blank, white wall. My painting hand was quivering with the possibilities but I didn’t want management coming after me in my sleep. The wall stayed blank for a month and a half until I finally decided on the solution. Here is what I did:
Temporary wall mural using contact paper.
Here’s what you’ll need:
- contact paper. I wanted a matte gray paper but couldn’t find it so I settled on a faux black leather. (Make sure it’s thin, adhesive paper – NOT squishy drawer liner contact paper)
- scissors
- level / yardstick
- your inspiration; mine was a lyric from an Ingrid Michaelson song that is beautiful and oh so true.
Let’s get going.
Step one, cut a long, thin strip of contact paper and stick it to the wall you want to use. If it stays adhered to the wall (no peeling or bubbling) then you are in good shape and you can proceed. The first paper I tried was too thin and wasn’t sticky enough and peeled from the wall within minutes.
Step Two, trace your letters or design on the wrong side of the contact paper. MAKE SURE YOU WRITE THE LETTERS/DESIGN SO THEY ARE THE MIRROR IMAGE OF WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE ON THE WALL. Otherwise you will need a mirror to read your message or see your design. Be aware of the size, I wanted the words to make an impact and I had a huge space to work with. Plan accordingly.
Trace the mirror image of letters on wrong side of contact paper
Step Three, cut out the letters. (Not much to this step.)
carefully cut out letters
Step Four, prepare your wall with the level and the yardstick. There are probably other ways to tackle this step but I work with what I have in front of me and what I had in front of me were: yardstick, short level, scrap contact paper. Why get out more tools if you can improvise? First, use the level to make sure that the yardstick is…level. Tape the yardstick to the wall using the extra strips of contact paper. Boom. You can start applying your letters and they will be straight and even. Move the yardstick as you go, leveling each time.
Tape your leveled yardstick to the wall with excess contact paper
Step Five, step back and admire your work. I told you this one was easy. When you get tired of the temporary mural peel it off the wall and start all over again with something new and different.
step back and assess your work - is everything straight? Yes? You're done!
I used a closet door as my guide
TIP: if you use metallic contact paper be VERY CAREFUL when cutting and peeling. Metallics show every flaw and bump…not very attractive. Be aware of your textures and finishes before you get too far into the process.
More non-diaper bags!
By · CommentsSo, the name NON-DIAPER bag is really hitting a note with moms, but there are people out there who want this bag but feel like they can’t have it unless it is hiding diapers and ointment and pacifiers. NOT TRUE! The whole purpose of the bag is for everyone to have space that they need to hold what they need without their bag screaming DIAPERS IN HERE!
Get one for school, get one for work, get one for your next shopping trip…get one to hold those diapers. It is the perfect bag for everyone, I promise. I haven’t heard a bad word yet!
- Kaleidoscope Bag
- Interior of Kaleidoscope Bag
Pink, rose and coffee brown in a kaleidoscope pattern draw all eyes to this bag. One exterior end pocket for phone, keys etc. Deep brown interior with a three pocket panel trimmed in pink. $55
Striped Latte Bag
Interior Striped Latte Bag
Stripes in cool tones are casual and easy to wear. One exterior end pocket for necessities. Lining is a warm cafe latte color with a three pocket panel trimmed in crisp, clean white. $55
Damask Bag
Interior of Damask Bag
Classic black and white damask is punched up with a touch of graphite. A pop of pink lining brightens up the bag with a three pocket panel trimmed in white with black stitching. $50
Project: Easy Pillowcase
By · CommentsAddie has been telling us that she wants a pillow…and what Addie wants, she gets (as long as its something I can make!) She was smart and told us while we were at the fabric store so it was easy to get everything we needed. We let her pick her own fabric that she wanted to sleep on and it wasn’t a big surprise when she bypassed the tropical prints for the character aisle!
Addie's chose her buddies Dora and Ariel for her pillowcases
What you’ll need:
- pillow
- enough fabric to wrap around the width of the pillow with a few inches extra on the length. I started with half a yard of each print
- thread, needle, thimble
- magnetic snap (I only do this because I made the cases for Addie and I didn’t want the pillow sliding out)
First off, measure the width of the pillow, from seam to seam. Cut your fabric to that length +1″ (plus one inch) this leaves half inch seam allowance. Don’t worry about the length of the fabric, leave it LONG (I like an additional 7 inches on the length of the pillow) and you can roll it down to the correct length later.
use a flexible measuring tape to get the correct measurments
Sew the side seams from top to bottom with the 1/2″ seam allowance, right sides together. Once the side seams are done, keeping the right sides together, start folding the top in a french hem technique to finish the edge. For a child’s pillow like Addie’s I each fold was about 2″. For a bigger pillowcase make the folds longer, closer to 4″ or 5″.
start folding the hem. fold a couple of inches, press, and repeat the fold
keep folding until it JUST closes at the end of the pillow
Once you have the length that suits you, top stitch the folded hem. Add any decorative touches that you want on your pillowcase now because otherwise you’re done, easy as that! I added hidden magnetic snaps into the fold of Addie’s pillowcases because I didn’t want any extra fabric flapping around or the pillow sliding out of the case. I also added a purple ribbon to the hem of the Little Mermaid pillow. I could say that it was just for decorative appeal but it was to cover the snap holes after I put them on the wrong side of the fold. Oops. A stitched on grosgrain ribbon hid those holes and added a little more color!
The finished product.
Addie pretending to sleep (and snore) on her new pillowcase
Have fun, if you’re making this for a child let them in on it! Let them decide who, or what, will be on their pillowcase and it will be even MORE special.
Have fun, let me know how you do!
Project: Rolled Scrap Fabric Flowers
By · CommentsI was cutting and pinning some bags last night in preparation for a marathon session at the sewing machine when I noticed how many pieces of solid fabric scraps I had lying around. My mind, working the way it does, went straight to: what can I make out of those?
Answer: Flowers!
Rolled Fabric Flowers
These are so fun, and really easy. When you are putting these together don’t worry about perfection or exact measurements, you don’t even need to have a measuring tool at all.
Let’s get rolling…
You’ll need:
what you'll need
- long scraps of fabric, patterned or solid colors (my scraps were about 30″ long and I cut them to 3.5″ wide)
- scissors
- thread, needle and thimble
- felt
- hot glue gun or fabric glue
- pin backing, headband, magnet (whatever you want to adhere your flower to)
That’s it. Seriously.
First, Fold the fabric in half lengthwise and pin. Sew a running stitch (what I call the in and out stitch, but is also known as basting) Along the entire length of the fabric.
running stitch along long raw edge
As you sew, the fabric will gather on the thread:
the fabric will gather on the thread and start to curl
To make a more open flower, more of a blossom (see the purple flower) for a tighter rose-like flower don’t pull the fabric tightly on the thread.
When you get to the end of the length of fabric leave the thread and needle attached. Start to roll the fabric in on itself, sewing through the base of the roll until it is too thick to sew through. When it is too thick start to sew the outer layers to the inner layers and they will be secured.
on a roll - start the center of the flower
sew through the roll to secure
sew outer layers to inner layers
When you have reached the end of the fabric you can do a couple of different things: one, tuck the raw edges of the fabric in on itself and sew the end closed or two, the technique I prefer, fold the raw edge down and sew into the base of the flower.
side view of raw edge before fold
fold raw edge down and sew into base
When you have knotted and cut off your thread you are essentially done with the flower. If you are going to put it somewhere permanent the you can go ahead and glue it or sew it to your chosen place. If you want to turn it into a pin or have a clean “bottom” (not see the crazy stitches) then use the felt technique used in the flower pin project.
Boom. You’re done. I am going to make a ton of these and make a belt. I think…maybe a headband. It would look very cool to cover the front of a pillow with multicolored rolled flowers. Ahhhh, there are a million ways to use them – what will YOU do with yours?
Project: Foam Core Bulletin Board
By · CommentsWhere do you find inspiration? Do you sit in a peaceful corner of your house gazing out over a garden or maybe the softly pulsing waves of the ocean? Is there a scented candle and a sketch book just waiting to record your best and brightest ideas?
I want you to see my workspace as it has been for months now:
Breeding ground for creativity? Nope.
Sometimes the reality of inspiration is not nearly as pretty as our imaginations want it to be. I used to store all of my supplies behind our family room couch; fabric was packed into a large storage bin and everything else could be found in random plastic shopping bags. Ideal? Absolutely not. I had so many ideas that never came to fruition because I just didn’t feel like digging for supplies, searching for the right fabric and then putting it all away when I was done. So I bought some shelves and some boxes and organized all of my materials. Although it forced a big crack in the dam of creativity it was still tough to LOVE working on a project. I needed to see my inspiration. I needed the clutter to disappear. I needed beauty right there in front of me as I pushed fabric through the machine.
Here is my workstation now:
Creativity Corner
My small corner of creativity may not look out over a garden and I may not hear the waves on the beach, but it is clean and organized. The things that inspire me are pinned on my bulletin board and when I feel like I just can’t sew another stitch I look up and see that great t-shirt or the awesome flower arrangement and I HAVE to keep creating.
The dam has broken. Want to have YOUR inspiration in your face everyday urging you to keep going? Let’s make some foam core bulletin boards.
What you need:
- A frame (or many, depending on your space) I have numerous frames around our home – regular picture frame with backing included as well as canvas frames, which have no backing.
- Enough foam core to fill your chosen frames (foam core looks like two pieces of poster board on either side of a layer of styrofoam. You can get it at craft stores like Michaels and Joann fabrics as well as office supply stores)
- Enough fabric to cover foam core (you will only need about two and a half inches extra on all sides so it can wrap around the board)
- Strong tape, hot glue or short staples
- Scissors
- Exacto knife / utility knife
Here is the assortment of frames I knew I wanted to transform into bulletin boards:
frame selection
One 24″ x 36″, one 14″ x 18″ and two 8″ x 10″ frames. First, I removed the backing, poster and glass from the large frame so it was ready to be assembled.
Step one: measure foam core to the size of the frame insert and mark the entire line. Use the exacto/utility knife to score the top layer of foam core then keep cutting deeper until you have gotten through all layers.
slice along the edge of a ruler if you don't trust free hand
Step two: Stretch your fabric out on your work surface (mine always happens to be the floor) Once stretched put the cut foam core piece on top of the fabric, centered. Working from top then bottom, left side then right side, secure the fabric to the foam core. I used packing tape because it was the first sticky thing I saw in my supply closet. You can use duct tape, hot glue, flat thumb tacks or short staples (long staples will poke through to the front of the foam core)
use enough tape to keep fabric from pulling loose in front
Step three: Once the fabric is secure pop the foam core into the frame of our choice. If you can’t use the backing provided or you are using canvas frames you can tape the foam core to the frame or use canvas clips.
foam core is light, these tiny clips will keep it secure
Continue the process with the rest of your frames and then hang them up! Once you have them placed find some attractive push pins and spread your inspiration all over your finished project. Believe me, you will be pleased with the results, I AM!
finished foam core bulletin boards
Project: Sunlight Snooze Button
By · CommentsHere is Addison’s room:
Here is the skylight that brightens up her beautiful room and wakes her up long before mommy and daddy are ready to be awake.
I don’t know if this project will be exactly what you need…unless you live in a hundred year old furniture factory that has been converted into lofts and your skylight is surrounded by thick, wood beams. But if you get anything out of this, just realize that there is always a solution to your problem – and it’s usually a pretty easy solution too.
I knew that I needed to fashion a shade, or cover for the sunlight but didn’t (and couldn’t) make it permanent. So I bought a yard of thick, navy blue felt and four purse making grommets. I already had a container full of screw hooks so I pulled four of those as well.
First: measure the area you need to cover. Then measure the fabric to fit. Cut.
I used two layers of felt to make sure the sunlight doesn’t sneak in for an extra early wake up call. Top stitch layers together and backstitch around corners where grommets will go.
Follow the instructions and apply the grommets to the corners of the fabric. I use metal grommets that require a tiny screwdriver to secure. Make sure you examine the grommets before you take them home and make sure you have the correct tools.
Simple as that. Now grab your ladder and your screw hooks and screw them into the corners of the (in my case) skylight casing.
Repeat on all four corners. Then, easy as pie, hook the fabric onto the screw hooks.
And now all you have to do is sleep in.
What is your problem you need solved?
Let’s figure it out together! Contact me with your issue and we’ll find a way to fix it. I’m well rested now..I can help!
Backpack! Backpack!
By · CommentsI told Addie a long time ago that I would make her a backpack that was JUST her size. It wasn’t until she started watching a cartoon with a backpack wearing main character that she starting BEGGING me for her bag. Boots, Swiper, Benny the Bull, Map and Dora are very popular names around our house. Addison is absolutely in LOVE with Dora the Explorer and she wanted a purple backpack. What good comes from having a Mommy who makes things if she can’t get a simple purple backpack?
I did not make this pattern myself, I found it on an awesome blog called IndieTutes where I find tons of inspiration. Check it out here for a detailed description and how-to of the “Toddler Backpack”
Want to see my progress? Here are some pics…
Top front and bottom front pattern pieces topstitched and arranged over back pattern piece for proper placement. The pattern instructions call to put the backpack together with interfaced side as the wrong side. I cut an extra piece of each pattern so the interior of the backpack is purple and does not just show the interfacing.
Side loop pattern piece pinned to front panels
Stitching the side pieces to the front pieces…make sure you go slowly and adjust the fabric as you go, fabric backed by interfacing doesn’t cooperate so easily!
The pattern doesn’t call for the straps to be backed by interfacing but I backed both pieces with interfacing to make the a little stiffer…I find they stay on squirmy toddler shoulders more easily.
Here is my happy daughter with her finished backpack before she begged me to put a face on her backpack.
I like to let Addie have a hand in our projects, she’s starting to love making things with Mama!
We cut out white ovals for eyes, black circles for pupils and a red crescent for his mouth. Simple hand stitching around the edges secured the features.
This backpack has not left her back for DAYS. She only takes it off to sleep.
Have fun with this project! As she gets a little older I will make her another, bigger, version with a zipper so she can bring her preschool papers home. Maybe she won’t expect the next one to talk!
What IS a Non-diaper bag?
By · CommentsHere’s the thing: non-diaper bags are not just for women who have to carry around diapers! That’s the point, its for people who:
- want to be free from the diaper bag
- need a bag that can hold more than your average clutch
- are going to school and don’t want to carry a plain old backpack
- just want a personalized, beautiful bag that fits their needs
Do any of those people sound like you? Then order a non-diaper bag!
I’m coming out with new styles all the time, book club bags (whether you are in a book club or not) pool bags lined with terry cloth…and there are more to come.
So get in line, many have been ordered and many more will be made, but you had better place your order now!
Here are some samples of bags that have been made for other customers:
Large size, interior pocket panel with multiple pockets
Close up of gather pleats
Interior Pockets
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"The Skipper" Non-Diaper Bag
Front grommets and decorative rope
Front grommet detail, two exterior pockets in contrasting fabric
Interior Pocket Panel "The Skipper" Non-Diaper Bag
My Mama's Mother's Day Gift
Interior Pockets of "The Cindy"
Front Pocket "The Cindy"
"The MoMo" Book Club Tote
"The Meghan"
Magnetic Snap closure "The Meghan"
Interior 3 Pocket Panel "The Meghan"
Project: Silk Flower Pins
By · Comments
Do you love the look of the embellished clothes and accessories that are so popular in stores right now? Me too. But they are a PAIN to take care of – I don’t really want to dry clean my t-shirts. Here is your easy, removable, re-usable solution: a silk flower pin. Embellish your t-shirts, purses, belts, tank tops, dresses, shoes, the possibilities are endless. Give it a shot, you’ll love the results.
Your supply list:
silk flowers (size is up to you, I like small flowers so they don’t weigh my clothes down)
pin backing
hot glue gun (or a strong fabric glue)
felt (i prefer green)
needle and thread (again, I prefer green, but you can match your thread to each blossom)
scissors
Now, this is incredibly difficult so prepare yourself for some frustration.
Ah, I’m just kidding, this project is really simple. First, get everything set up. You will want to have everything at your fingertips for this one.
1. Whether you have one blossom per stem or numerous blooms in a bunch, first step is to pull the blossoms from the stems. It should be very easy, the majority of silk flowers are not connected securely. 
2. Make sure your needle is threaded and ready. Take the first flower and while holding the top and bottom at the same time, pull what is left of the plastic stem from the blossom. Make sure you hold on to the petals, THEY WILL FALL APART OF YOU DO NOT HOLD THEM SECURELY! Now take your threaded needle and sew the petals together.
3. When your petals are secure cut a circle of felt that will cover the flat of the back of your flower. Cut another piece of felt as long as the diameter of your circle and only as wide as the pin backing you have chosen. 
4. Glue the round piece of felt to the back of the flower. I highly recommend hot glue, you can get a hot glue gun very inexpensively at your local craft store and even some grocery stores. If you are using a different kind of glue, make sure each piece is dry and secure before moving on to the next step.
After gluing the felt round on the back of the flower, glue the pin backing directly to the felt.
5. Apply glue to the back of the rectangular piece of felt and slide between the stick of the pin and the backing. This is necessary because the surface area of the pin backing is not substantial enough to keep the pin attached to the flower. By using this small rectangular piece you are ensuring the pin will stay secure.
6. Wear your creation! I love the look of a cluster of these flowers on a white v-neck tshirt but they look beautiful on canvas bags, ribbon belts and even shoes with soft uppers. Have fun, be creative with your application and go impress everyone!
The Non-Diaper Bag
By · CommentsAfter my daughter was born I acquired a new obsession: diaper bags. I wanted multiple styles and colors and patterns that would fit my every style and function need. I now have a closet full of diaper bags that are rarely used – why? By the time Addie was a year old I grew tired of the ol’ faithful velcro, pockets and adjustable straps. I wanted something that HID the fact that I was carrying diapers and wipes next to my lipgloss and cellphone. I no longer needed as much STUFF for Addie, but still needed something big enough to carry one of her cardigans or an extra pair of her sandals. My answer? You’re gonna be stunned: I made my ideal bag.
I call it the NON-DIAPER BAG. It’s cute. It’s stylish. It’s a little quirky. And it is still useful.
A cross body, puckered pouch bag in a chocolate and cream leaf pattern lined in valencia orange…this bag is A-MAZ-ING. Big enough to hold what I need, I can create the perfect pockets and pouches for the interior – and no one will even know about the wet wipes tucked inside!
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As much as I would love to claim that I came up with this beauty of a bag all on my own, I cannot. This pattern can be found by following this link. I am not shy to admit that patterns are not my best friends. I think they are confusing and have always had a hard time using them to create projects. So, I just sew as I go, ending up with something original every time. But THIS pattern is easy and as un-confusing as a pattern can be. I never printed anything out, I simply read the sizing instructions and followed the basic instructions. I am now hooked.
Here are some of the highlights of my non-diaper bag making process:
materials needed
Top body panels + interfacing
making the closure panel
finished magnetic snap panel
straps before turning right side out
I want all moms to feel incredible this coming Mother’s Day. If you want a mom in your life (or YOU if you want one!) to have this awesome bag, contact me and place an order. Trust my opinion? I’ll choose a beautiful color palette for your bag and surprise you! If you want something to fit your style, clue me in to your preferences:
floral or graphic patterns
specify a favorite color
small (16″ x 10″) or large (24″ x 14″ shown above)
cross body straps (36″ long) or shoulder straps (24″ long)
Want pockets? Tell me what you need to carry and I’ll create some pockets to suit your needs. Interior pockets can be added for $5, exterior pockets for an additional $5. This will be your (or her) favorite bag EVER. Trust me.
Large Bag: $45
Small Bag: $30
Contact me: katie@katieOchicago.com or click on “contact me” in the tool bar above. We will work together to make this Mother’s Day unforgettable.
all bags ordered before 4/20/10 will be honored at the promotional price of $35 for a large bag and $27 for small
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What kind of artist are you?
By · CommentsI am not a trained seamstress. I have never been to art school. I don’t use a sewing machine or study technique or know the correct name for stitches. The last art classes I took were in elementary school with Mrs. Vinzant who was inspirational and nutty and eclectic just like an art teacher should be. Do any of these things make me less of an artist?
I don’t think so.
I am unconventional and am driven my creativity and a desire to figure things out on my own. When faced with a challenge I want to come up with my own solution without patterns or instructions. If you follow my projects then you already know all of this, I don’t do things like other people. I am a fly by the seat of my pants kind of artist – my work is driven by curiosity more than anything else and every time I make something new I feel as though I have taken a layer of film from the window and my life becomes just a little bit brighter.
Does any of this make me a respected artist in the fine art community? Probably not. I have never ventured into the fold of museum quality artists to find out. An interior designer may know intricate technique but I know immediately whether a certain color combination will work and can combine contrasting patterns with ease. Would an experienced tailor be shocked by my sewing technique? Most definitely! But my methods work for me. I am quite proud of what I can accomplish with a needle, thread and a little intuition.
I know that with a few classes in painting, clothing construction, graphic design and photoshop I could develop my natural talent into something truly great – something at which other established artists would tip their hats. But as soon as I become driven more by desire for acclaim and less by passion and curiosity then I need to take a step back and reassess my status as “artist.”
So, the big question of the day is: what kind of artist are you? What reaches out and draws you to your next project, nerves tingling and dying to see the results of your work?
Redesign may not be worthy of a gallery showing, but it is something about which I am deeply passionate. So here I go, onward and upward, fueled by a need to create. Will I be trailed by accolades and awards? I don’t know, but with or without them I am still going to repaint my kitchen table and paint a mural on my living room wall.
Because that is what I do.
I am an artist.
Project: Get off my ‘case’
By · CommentsSometimes we need a case to hold things. It’s a fact. In my..case…I just bought a non-diaper bag that looks great but doesn’t have compartments inside for things I need for my two year old. One of the things it’s missing? Pockets to hold diapers. If diapers aren’t contained they unfold, get in the way and accumulate enough JUNK on them that one would never want to place them against one’s child’s skin. SO, I made a case for the diapers. Your case can hold anything, just take the basic – ridiculously easy – principle and adjust it to fit your needs.
If you are going to try and follow these instructions you have to free your mind from the constrictions of patterns — I don’t do patterns. Just grab your materials and lets get going!
The first step to SO many of my projects is to pin around your “filler” object. To do this lay your fabric out RIGHT SIDE UP – this means you want to see the side of the fabric you want showing when the project is complete. In my case, the green pattern. Now, place your “filler item” (2 diapers in this case) fold the fabric to the top of the item the pin down the sides. This creates a pouch. Here, I pinned a hem across the top of the pouch for a clean edge once it is turned right side out. I left enough fabric at the top of the pouch to create a flap closure later on.
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I chose an accent fabric in a different pattern as a liner for the inside of the flap so when the case it open it doesn’t show the stitching and the wrong side of the main fabric. After I cut the green fabric to the size I wanted for the flap I pinned a piece of accent pattern from the top of the flap to halfway down the pouch. This way, when the seams are sewn the liner will be sewn directly into the main fabric seams.
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Now, using a tight in and out stitch, sew from a bottom corner up the side to the top of the pouch hem. Don’t sew any higher yet or the flap will not work properly. Then sew along them pouch hem BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DO NOT SEW THE HEM TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE POUCH – YOU WILL SEW IT CLOSED – just sew along the fold. Once you have sewn the length of the hem, sew down the other side to the bottom corner until you hit the bottom pouch fold. Tie off your stitch.
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Now that the pocket is sewn, work on the flap. Fold the liner fabric away from the main (outer) fabric flap. Fold in the corners and top seam as though you are wrapping a gift (as seen in the picture at left) Pin down. I like to use a thin line of washable fabric glue to keep these pieces secure with clean folds until I complete the sewing.
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The “right side” of the flap in the pinning stages. This is what will show on the outside when the project is complete.
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Now fold the liner fabric so it matches the lines of the main fabric. Fold the seams inward so when the liner and main fabrics are stitched together the folds and seams are hidden. Pin to secure. The section of liner that extends past the fold of the flap should already be sewn into the seams of the pouch. Just continue the seam with a tight, even in and out stitch.
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When all seams are complete, turn the pouch inside out so the right side of the fabric is showing and the seams are hidden inside. This is what it should look like.
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If you need to make sure the pouch stays closed stitch in a snap, some velcro or a magnet closure. When you are sewing the flap closure make sure you only stitch into the liner and not through both layers of fabric, you don’t want your stitches showing on the outside of the flap.
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Here is my finished project! I have been using it non-stop and I am incredibly pleased with the result. Give it a shot on your own. I know my methods are unconventional but they are effective!
I used the same basic technique to create a lined laptop case and will soon be sewing a lined sunglass bag. Keep checking in if you’re interested in the how-to on either of those projects…coming soon!
Project: Fabric Art
By · CommentsI have a ton of stuff, I think we’ve covered that fact. Among my piles and piles of things to be redesigned was a large, square canvas…full of holes. I used it for a previous project where I filled the canvas with faux flowers for a piece of 3D wall art. It was pretty but I took it apart to build the hanging floral ball. I didn’t throw the canvas away because I thought I would be able to find another use for it – but it’s hard to paint a canvas that is full of holes. Well, here is my solution.
This project is dedicated to all you non-sewers out there. You won’t even have to THINK about a needle and thread to create this piece of art!
supplies needed for fabric art project
Here is what you’ll need:
- a canvas (or just use canvas stretchers to create the frame)
- enough fabric to create your “fabric painting”. I used scraps of fleece left over from my blanket making days, but you can make a plan of your image ahead of time and make a trip to the fabric store for the specific colors and patterns you’ll need. The cost will be minimal unless you are planning a large wall sized piece!
- Staple gun or thumb tacks
- Fabric Glue
- Scissors
Okay, let’s talk how-to. The hardest part about this project is having an image plan ahead of time, the actual construction is incredibly easy. First you need to attach your base layers to the canvas frame. I used blue for sky, light green for hills and dark green for the ground/grass layer. Wrap the fabric around the edges and staple, pulling the fabric taut as you work your way around. If you don’t have a staple gun and have decided to use thumbtacks, follow the same instructions and make sure the fabric is tight.
staple your fabric to the frame
Repeat this step with all pieces of base fabric.
Image Background
Now its time to start layering in patterns. This is, of course, your choice to add patterns but it adds so much to the final look. I used a pattern in green between the hills to show the separation between the layers.
Add pattern layer for differentiation and interest
I just tucked the fabric in between the hills and pulled it to the edges, stapling it to the frame. Then take your fabric glue and glue the lower layer of hills to the pattern fabric. You don’t need much, the thinner the line of glue the better so it doesn’t show through to the front.
Trim the pattern layers along the layering line
Once the glue is set, trim the pattern fabric along the hill line so there is a half inch of pattern between hill base layers.
Next step? Start adding details, you know, the pieces that will make this ART and not just a bunch of fabric stapled together. Cut the pieces in “reverse visual order.” In my piece I needed to attach the tree trunk, then the foliage, and then on to the birds and leaves and other small details.
Cut and apply glue to detail pieces before placing on main canvas
Now you can start layering in your detail pieces
Once you have your image completed you are essentially done with the piece. I decided to make this as a gift for one of my cousins who just gave birth to her first daughter and wanted to make it more personal for her so I added a few extra touches…
Have someone in mind? Personalize it!
Keeping it for yourself? Leave it the way it is.
But if you’re making this as a gift it is nice to make ALL angles as attractive as possible. I wanted to clean up the back of the canvas as much as I could…although I couldn’t do a whole lot about the holes all over the canvas!
Use wide ribbon to trim the backside
If it's a gift, make it attractive from all angles
To create a clean look for your canvas just trim extra fabric, whip out that fabric glue and attach the ribbon to both the fabric and the exposed wood.
And that’s it. Seriously. Hang it up, give it away. Do what you will…you are now a fabric artist. I’ll start adding more pieces so you can see how to achieve a more sophisticated, less child oriented look. Keep an eye out!
